
Termite Mounds, Coral Bay (CLICK on each photo for larger view)
We left Coral Bay at 8am and headed out on the road north towards Exmouth. This being the start of the farthest north I have ever been within Australia. Large termite mounds cover the ground, to our left and right, as far as the high could see all along this road. All of them constructed in exactly the same shape and the same orange/red color. They must be built in a fairly waterproof way because these have stood exactly like this for years and withstand all the winter rains. It is hard to know what these termites would be eating as there are no trees anywhere along this 100km long road, just low, grey shrubs.
At 2.30pm we arrive at Panawonica. Panawonica is a mining town. In fact, the mines seem to own, and operate, everything in town, including the service station where we must abide by their OHS ruling of allowing a safety clothes wearing person to re-fuel our

Panawonica Roos
car for us. The town is tiny, just a mess hall, dongas and workshops, a school and a shop. We stop at the shop and buy a couple a chocolate bars and some milk to take to Millstream with us as there are no shops, or anything for that matter, after this point until Roeburn!
We head east out of Panawonica on the 100km long gravel road (the side way in) to Millstream. This is not the most usual path travelled into Millstream we find as travellers usually travel up or down into the park rather than the way we have come. We have come in this way due to the weather front that we have been out running for the past 4 days! We had been told that this gravel road was rough but we find it in extremely good condition with no corrigation at all. In fact… this 100km stretch of road is the most picturesque section of road that I think I have ever seen.

One of many wild horses at Panawonica
Everywhere looks green, well grey/green (which is the green of the Aussie outback) from afar it looks like the earth is covered in lush grass but on closer look in fact it is covered with millions of clumps of spinifex. This little plant may look harmless but it has an extremely nasty bite as its ‘leaves’ are actually spines.
Amongst the spinifex you can see the red earth. The red earth from Panawonica and north & east of there is the darkest, most beautiful red earth I have ever seen. The orange/red earth of Kalgoorlie/Kambalda doesn’t come close to this beauty. I don’t know what it is about the red earth that I love so much, I just found it amazing and can’t get enough of it! Amongst the spinifex clumps different types of soft leaf wattles grow. These are all in flower. There are small clumps of purple wildflowers and grey leafed red flowering natives. There are small hills made

Campsite Millstream
completely of rocks that just appear out of nowhere on the left and right intermittantly. We pass huge tabletop hills that loom out of the ground which have spinifex on the sides and red earth tops. None of these words can impart just how beautiful this area is.
There are huge flocks of corellas and finches flying everywhere. Several types of butcher birds and willy wagtails have also been in all the areas we have stopped since Perth… they seem to thrive up here just as they do in the metro area. The only birds which have totally changed are the types of eagles we see. Up until Coral Bay the eagles were all wedgetails but north of that they are a smaller eagle which is brown (almost pink) in colour with a creamy underside to their wings with black feathers at the wing tips. These eagles do not feast on road kill (as we saw the wedgetails doing) and seem more timid also, preferring not to land at all when cars or people are close.

Several of the flock of 1000s of Corellas, Millstream
At 4pm we arrive at Millstream and pay the gate fee of $10 for entry into the park. This is a self service where you fill out your details on a small envelope and place it in a metal box before following (the poor) signage to the “homestead” where apparently we get more directions to where we are able to camp. On arriving at the homestead we find it all open and unattended. They invite you to look around in the homestead which has displays and notes about the rotten treatment of the aboriginal people (which seems to be the same story everywhere we go!) and that we should proceed to one of a couple of camping sites that are still open. We choose the no generator site of Crossing Pool and take Snappygum drive which has two small river crossings to get to camp site.
Snappygum drive is very winding and is very narrow. The scenery is much harsher than on the road from

The desert Pea (Sturt)
Panawonica which surprises us. 10 minutes later we pull into a treed area next to a billabong type area of the Fortesque river. We meet the ‘camp hosts’ who tell us to look around and choose from the two remaining sites available. There are only about 10 groups here and they are set up very close to each other and we choose a site next to a small tree to put up our tent. It seems so strange that we have travelled 1500kms into the middle of nowhere to camp in such a tiny space with a dozen couples (including kids) which is hardly what I had been expecting (I had expected someone to point along a long vacant river bank saying set up wherever you like!). We set up in between to camper trailers which we are told will both be moving on the next morning. After setting up our tent the neighbour tells us that the correllas in the trees overhead are constant visitors. Until this moment we are so tired we have not noticed the noise, which now we are made

Canoeing on Fortesque River, Millstream
aware, is quite ear piercing. Literally thousands of corellas litter the trees above us and on both sides of the river. Worse than the noise however, is the mess, which there is no avoiding. A thousand corellas make for a huge mess and in the two nights we are here our tent, cooking stuff, chairs and car (particularly) are covered in corella poo!
At 5.50pm the noise of the corellas reaches it peak and they seem excited about something. The neighbours tell us that this happens every night and at around 6pm they ‘flock off’ and peace is returned. At 6.05 this happens…. it is quite spectacular! The next morning the flock returns to spend their day pooing on the campers before leaving at 6.05pm again on the second night. Obviously their ‘country time’ is more precise than the humans… you can set your watch by them.
We decide on Wednesday morning to drive to the gorge. It is still overcast and, like the photos of previous days, not the perfect weather for photography. Once at the top of the hill where the cliff gorge is we realise

Millstream Gorge
that although we seem to have travelled a long way (and have over winding roads in various directions) actually the cliff is just a little further up the river and opposite our camping ground. The view from the top is nice, but nothing special. We find Geocache WANOZ03 “Millstream Cliff” and take photos of the view, a cute little lizard who blends in with the red rocks very well, and the river. There are greyish native palms everwhere. Snappy gums are prolific and seem to reach the same height (smallish) and tall paperbark trees line the river.
We decide to take up the offer of the ‘camp hosts’ and borrow the ranger’s canoe to go up the Fortesque river to where we can view the cliffs from a low vantage point. The sun shines for the first time in days and it is very peaceful and quite beautiful paddling up the river away from the other campers. There are many types of birds - heron, shags, kingfisher, corella and other small chirping birds. There are a lot of brilliant blue and also red

Water crossing, Millstream
dragonflies amongst the bullrushes but they prove elusive when we take out the camera. The red cliffs are certainly more impressive from on the river but both Cliff and I agree that we are not impressed at all with Millstream, in fact we are very disappointed and we wonder if this will be the same for Karijini.
We are dirty and dusty after 2 days on the road and decide to take a swim in the cold waters of the Fortesque River. We have been told that it is frowned on to use soaps or shampoos anywhere near the rivers in the outback but we decide to overlook this (the ton of corella poos bombarding the water here each day would surely do more damage than a handful of shampoo?) and we quickly wash our hair while taking a swim while hoping no-one notices any frothy bubbles around us! We are grateful for the swim and feel quite refreshed. We talk to other campers, all who are from interstate, and they tell us that Karijini is amazing and that Millstream also is a disappointment after the hype of brochures. This is encouraging news.

Down the goat path at Mt Herbert, Chichester
We get up and have breakfast at 7am on Thursday morning (2nd July) and by 8.30 are on our way out of camp stopping at the first water crossing to scrub our car of corella poo (until other campers leaving push us through) and then at the 2nd water crossing to wash off the mess after losening at at the prior waterering hole. Other campers moving past obviously think we are simply washing our 4wd (which would be ridiculous in the circumstances, in the middle of the red dirt) what they don’t realise is that bird poo actually eats through your paint top coat in just a couple of days and seeing as there was about 1/2 ton of the stuff on our car we can put up with the looks of the passers by!
We head east through Millstream then North towards Roeburn which is only 200kms or so away. We decide to head to Mt Herbert and Python Pool on our way out of Chichester. The

Mt Herbert Summit Rock Building
drive to Mt Herbert again is more scenic that actually in Millstream and there are dozens of rocky peaks on both sides of the road. They are all covered in spinifex but by far the most amazing this is the fact that they appear to be made solely from individual red rocks. All of these rocks are squarish and you would think that each hill had been made by a helicopter dropping out a pile of rocks from a height. Mt Herbert is a small hill really and we park at the bottom and climb the goats path to the summit and the view is breathtaking. Cliff builds a small rock tower (as everyone seems to do around here for some reason!) and the trip down the rocky path is more trecherous than the trip up was.
Python Pool is not far away and the winding road up and through the small hills to get there is very nice. We pull into the small parking area and it seems nothing special but on walking

Python Pool, Millstream
the 100 metres through the head high scrub we come up on the most beautiful water pool with a huge rock face. The water looks very inviting. The sun is out just at the right time for some great photos. We stand there in awe for about 20 minutes taking photos and chatting to another couple that have turned up who had been at our camp site at Millstream. By far Python Pool has been the highlight of the entire two days at Millstream Chichester National Park (and the canoe!).
At 11.30 we head off on a tarmac road (amazing for out here where everything else is gravel) between red rocked hills and spinifex. Brahman cattle graze at the edge of the road along the way. There are two cattle stations on this stretch of road - it would be very strange being a farmer out here where the cattle roam free and graze on

Python Pool, Millstream
whatever it can find growing amongst the spinifex, for surely they could not eat that prickly stuff (that prickles through jeans and even shoes!).
We arrive in Roeburn at 1pm. What a totally woeful place Roeburn is. Cliff has been here before and tells me that all/any building had bars or shutters on it last time he was here…. and this is still how it is. There are 3 indigenous groups living here and their areas are marked by signposts and a mass of tin looking buildings about 250mtrs from the road. The town would have once been quite beautiful. The buildings quite European looking and all the same era… but, time has stood still in this place and it is un-inviting, and quite spooky really. The police station has about 6 patrol cars parked at it and surely is the most used building in town. Roeburn prison is at the Northern end of town a couple of kilometres away from the end of the other buildings.. probably because it is too much of a pain for the

Brahman Cattle on route to Roeburn
aboriginal locals to walk. The walls are high on the prison, probably not to keep the prisioners in but to keep non-prisioners out. I imagine it is like with the Kalgoorlie prison where they have to head count each even to weed out the ‘extras’ that have come in for a free meal and bed for the night!
We have no desire stop anywhere in Roeburn and head north up the point to Cosack. The signage there is depressing stating how the Enlish arrivals in 1885 (who were shipwrecked off the coast) incarcerated the local natives to use in pearling and prostitution.. however, other signage say that the total population of (non natives) including the pearling men was just 31 people. It appears the entire area of Roeburn has decided to dwell on the past of over 200 years rather than do anything for now or the future. We walk for 5 minutes up to the Cosack museum and have a quick look around and read the story of a 19yo English woman who was brought to Cosack in 1885 by her new husband (a very harsh life) before quickly heading back to the car and high tailing it to Karratha.

Lizard, Millstream (click for larger photo)
Karratha is just 40kms away and we decide rather than setting out our camper trailer we will find a motel that has a washing machine and dryer so we can wash our clothes. The motel “Great Western” is almost fully booked they say (though it is deserted when we arrive) and we check in to a ‘delux’ room which we pay an extra $50 for so we can have the washer/dryer. By 7pm there is not a space in the carpark which is now full with miner/workers vehicles…. extraordinary considering it would cost them $1750 a week to stay here… but then houses rent here for $2,500 a week! We decide not to sightsee late this afternoon and have a long awaited shower and propertly washing our hair etc.